by Aspect County

De Bethune DB28 GS

The De Bethune horological tradition is all about innovation

Making innovation the very core of the creative process. Viewing today’s approach as a continuation of the endeavours undertaken by the great master-watchmakers of the Age of Enlightenment. Integrating new technologies and applied materials with mathematical calculations and the fundamental principles of classic mechanics. Pushing the limits of watchmaking techniques while improving reliability and comfort. Favouring taut lines and juxtaposed materials, playing with finishes, volumes and light effects to convey and stir emotions – the very emotional appeal exuded by the greatest horological masterpieces.

The DB28 GS expresses a bold character revealed through both its aesthetic and technical attributes. It fully complies with the strict rule of wearer comfort that De Bethune applies to its models, and particularly those in the DB28 collection. It owes this exceptional comfort to a combination between the lightness of the titanium case, the softness of its hand-polished finish, the 12 o’clock crown position, and above all the presence of the patented floating lugs system that adapts to wrist size and movements. A natural rubber strap featuring a microlight motif, a first among the brand’s collections, also contributes to making it extremely pleasant to wear.

This model has fully benefited from the special attention lavished on refined hand-crafted finishes performed in the workshops at L’Auberson, such as the microlight decoration of the bridges and mainplate, the flat polishing of the deltoid-shaped bridge, or the deep azure shade of the hands achieved using the ancestral flame-blueing technique.

It also meets the high demands and reliability standards imposed by the De Bethune Technical Department on its in-house calibres, notably by equipping them with innovations and patented inventions that have been regularly rewarded the 13 years of research conducted by the engineers in La Chaux.

The DB28 GS proudly displays impeccable water resistance to depths corresponding to three full leagues under the sea. Its DB2115 calibre is equipped with a self-regulating twin barrel ensuring a 6‑day power reserve – a performance that can be tracked by means of a blue indicator at 3 o’clock.

The presence of the silicon/white gold balance wheel and balance-spring with flat terminal curve ensures the ideal inertia-mass ratio for an optimal frequency of 28,800 vph suited to wristwatches.

The work done on the regulating organ follows well-known physical laws. The patents for the curve of the balance-spring as well as the annular balance, featuring maximum inertia and minimal weight, composed of a disc made of openworked silicon (a light material in the centre) and white gold (a heavy material on the exterior), all present significant technical advances contributing to the performance and precision of this calibre. 

The watch also undergoes a number of reliability and shock-resistance tests, which it passes with flying colours notably because of its triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system that protects the heart of its movement by a titanium bridge held by a spring system. Three jewels connect the various elements, serving not only to absorb shocks but also to secure the bridge in case of abrupt displacements.

The GS was designed by David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet; it was thought out and developed in the R&D lab in La Chaux, and then entirely crafted in the workshops at L’Auberson. The GS is a DB28: a true De Bethune creation.

Functions: Hours – minutes – performance indication between 2 and 3 o’clock – water resistance to 100
Movement: DB2115 calibre – mechanical hand-wound movement 
Power reserve: 6 days 
Case: Hand-polished and smoothed-down grade 5 titanium – diameter 44mm – thickness 11 mm 
Attachments: short or long floating lugs* in smoothed-down grade 5 titanium 
Crystal: sapphire crystal, 1800 Vickers hardness with double anti-reflective treatment 
Crown screw-down at 12 o’clock – setting in two positions 
Back: solid, in grade 5 titanium 

Dial: visible movement finishes in microlight titanium and polished steel – performance-zone 
read-off between 2 and 3 o’clock
Hands: hand-polished and flamed-blued steel – manually smoothed-down grade 5 titanium 
Strap: Natural rubber with folding clasp 

Movement: mechanical hand-wound movement 
Functions: hours – minutes – performance indication between 2 and 3 o’clock

Diameter 30 mm – 262 parts – hand-crafted finishing and decoration – mainplate and bridges adorned with De Bethune microlight motif, hand-polished and chamfered steel parts 

Self-regulating twin barrel* 
Silicon/white gold balance –
balance-spring with flat terminal curve* 
Triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system* 
Silicon escape-wheel* 

Jewelling: 37 jewels 
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations per hour 
Power reserve: 6 days 

  • Manufacture De Bethune patents and innovations