Dunkerley’s,Deal – Dinner by the Sea
Few restaurants have a location that tells you quite so clearly what to expect from the menu. Sitting proudly on Beach Street, with the English Channel stretching out ahead and Deal’s distinctive pier almost directly opposite, Dunkerley’s feels inseparable from its seaside setting. And, as we discovered during a recent visit, that relationship with the coast continues very much onto the plate.
Dunkerley’s has been part of Deal’s hospitality scene for almost four decades. Ian and Linda Dunkerley took over the former Pegasus restaurant in 1987, initially operating a 40-cover restaurant before gradually expanding into the neighbouring Pier Hotel. Today, it is a 16-bedroom hotel and restaurant, with their son Ben now leading the kitchen, a family business that has grown organically alongside the town it calls home.
Seafood naturally plays a starring role here, so there seemed only one sensible way to begin: oysters. Served simply and allowed to speak for themselves, they made a suitably fresh introduction to what was to follow.
Next came the scallops, beautifully cooked and a reminder of why this ingredient needs so little interference when handled well. Mussels followed, another dish entirely at home within sight of the water. Across the courses there was a reassuring confidence to the cooking: good ingredients, thoughtful presentation and, importantly, none of the unnecessary fuss that can sometimes distract from them.
Dunkerley’s menus change with the seasons, but seafood remains an obvious thread. Depending on the menu and time of year, diners might find everything from Dover sole and halibut to lobster, mussels, scallops and oysters, alongside meat and vegetarian choices. There is also a more relaxed Bistro offering, Sunday lunch and a calendar of seasonal menus and special dining evenings throughout the year.
The surroundings complement the food nicely. Dunkerley’s isn’t a glossy new-build hotel designed to imitate the seaside; the building has evolved over many years, including the joining together of the original restaurant and neighbouring hotel. That history gives it character, while its coastal location provides the decoration that no interior designer could improve upon, the sea itself!
After dinner, there was fortunately no journey home waiting for us. We were staying upstairs in Room 3, a wonderfully bright and spacious sea-facing room dressed in calming blues and whites. The coastal theme feels appropriate with comfortable seating beside the window and plenty of space to settle in. But the real feature is outside. From the room, the eye is naturally drawn through the large windows towards the Channel and Deal Pier beyond.
It turns dinner at Dunkerley’s into something closer to a proper seaside escape. There are 16 individually appointed bedrooms, ranging from Principal rooms to Standard and Budget accommodation, making an overnight stay an appealing option for those travelling from further afield, or simply those who fancy lingering in Deal a little longer.
There is plenty happening downstairs throughout the year too. Special seasonal menus sit alongside Gourmet Nights and other events, while the restaurant can accommodate celebrations and private occasions. It all adds to the sense that Dunkerley’s is far more than somewhere relying on its enviable position to bring people through the door.
Nearly 40 years after Ian and Linda first opened their restaurant, perhaps that longevity says more than any award or accolade could. Dunkerley’s has changed and expanded, another generation has entered the kitchen, yet its greatest ingredients remain remarkably simple: good food, genuine hospitality and one of the finest seaside settings in Deal.
And waking the following morning to the sun rising beyond the pier, it was difficult to imagine wanting to be anywhere else.